Tuesday, December 10, 2019

El Auténtico Pato Manila, a misnomer

So I came a cross this restaurant from the post of a Mexican colleague. Of course, as a native of Metro Manila I got curious.

El Auténtico Pato Manila (see their IG and FB) is a restaurant in Mexico City that specialises in duck tacos in a casual setting. From this post it seems the duck is done Peking-style and "tasted like China." The restaurant also seems to have a lot of Chinese imagery, including portraits and busts of Mao.

Apart from the name, there seems to be nothing in the restaurant's concept or cuisine that is anywhere close to Manila or the Philippines. While I would love to have Peking duck tacos in Manila, I don't think this dish can be found even in the Chinese-Filipino districts of Binondo or Greenhills (although it should be because Peking duck tacos sound amazing). Moreover, Manila has been associated with many images, some better than others, but Mao has never been one of them.

A few questions ran across my mind with this restaurant. Can't they really distinguish between Manila and Beijing? Are Filipinos and Chinese (and Japanese and Malaysians and Lao and...) one and the same for them? Is this a gross misrepresentation of Filipino cuisine, which itself has Chinese and Mexican influences (Filipino tamales and champorado are already Chinese-Mexican fusion dishes)? As someone who is from Manila, how should I feel about this?

Well, I wasn't offended. If anything I was amused. I found it funny to have so many misnomers on so many levels in a restaurant's name. I thought it was good for Manila to get credit for what looks like an awesome duck taco. But I was also concerned it would give Mexicans an inaccurate picture of what Filipino cuisine is and their contributions to it. I could also imagine some members of the Politburo taking offence at using Mao's name and image in vain.

But, overall, if this restaurant helps increase Mexicans' curiosity about Filipino (and Chinese) cuisine, then more power to them. Hopefully it gets one or a few customers to search how Manileños do their duck tacos, and be bemused with the results. If the restaurant is interested, I'll be happy to give them tips on how to make things more Manila-authentic.